Polar bear cub relaxing on mom at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. Priscilla Downey photo.
Flying into Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge along the Hudson Bay coast is an experience I’ll never forget. From above, the sub-Arctic tundra stretches endlessly, dotted with shimmering lakes, winding rivers and boreal forest. Beluga whales swim gracefully along the shoreline while polar bears patrol the beaches below. You can’t take your eyes off the ground, searching for wolves, moose or caribou that may be grazing below.
As we descended for landing at the remote lodge, a black bear and her two cubs ran along the runway beside us, an unforgettable welcome to our Hudson Bay Odyssey with Churchill Wild in the heart of the Canadian wilderness.
Our welcoming committee at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. Priscilla Downey photo.
A Warm Welcome to the Lodge
On arrival, we were greeted by Emma and Danny, the lodge managers, along with the incredible team of Churchill Wild guides. For me, it was also a reunion. I had explored with Terry, one of the guides, the year before at Seal River Heritage Lodge, and seeing him again set the tone for a week of adventure, laughter and connection.
The author photographing the landscape at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge.
The lodge itself is best described as rustic luxury. My guest room was cozy and comfortable, complete with an ensuite, and I shared it with a wonderful solo traveller from North Carolina who became a close friend over the week. The real heart of Nanuk is the great room, a gathering space with a big stone fireplace, a small bar, and wrap-around windows that frame the tundra outside. From here, we watched wildlife wander past and swapped stories over coffee and cocktails. The observation tower quickly became a favourite spot for scanning the horizon for polar bears by day and gazing at the northern lights by night.
Common room at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. Ricardo Diaz photo.
Dining in the Wild North
The braised beef ribs were a huge hit at Nanuk. Priscilla Downey photo.
If you think you’ll be “roughing it” on a polar bear safari, think again. The meals at Nanuk, based on Churchill Wild’s Blueberries & Polar Bears cookbook series, are unforgettable. Guests are treated to tundra-inspired, family-style meals, crafted by passionate chefs using local and wild-harvested ingredients. Each dish is hearty, thoughtful, and served for sharing, designed to warm you after a day in the tundra and bring everyone around the table together.
Fresh buns at Nanuk. Delicious! Priscilla Downey photo.
It’s like a fine dining approach to home cooking. The baked pickerel was my personal favourite, while the braised beef ribs were a huge hit with everyone (and reinvented the next day into mouthwatering rib sandwiches). And the desserts? Let’s just say the chocolate mousse still makes my mouth water.
One of my most memorable conversations of the trip was with our chef, who joined us on an excursion. The way he spoke about food and the creativity and science behind each meal made me think about cooking in a completely new way.
Once-in-a-Lifetime Wildlife Encounters
Mom and cub approaching us at Nanuk. Priscilla Downey photo.
Of course, the highlight of any Churchill Wild adventure is the wildlife. Starting on our first day, we came across a washed-up beluga carcass that on one occasion had attracted 12 polar bears to the area. Twelve. Watching mothers with cubs nursing and resting by a stream was emotional beyond words. Tears flowed among the group as we realized how rare and special it was to share space with such majestic animals. At one point, a large mom and her cub came toward us, and though my heart raced, our guide Terry calmly called out, “Hey bear, that’s close enough,” shifting the moment from nerves back to awe.
“Standing just metres from a polar bear is exhilarating, humbling, and deeply moving, all at once.” ~ Priscilla Downey photo.
On our last night, the sky erupted in a spectacular aurora borealis display of dancing green and purple ribbons that had us all laughing, crying and scrambling to capture the magic on camera. And our final morning gave us one more special gift: a mother and her twin first year cubs crossing a river, the perfect encounter to close off our week.
Building Friendships in the Wilderness
“Guests arrived from all over the world, but within days, you feel like you’ve known them forever.” ~ Priscilla Downey photo.
One of the unexpected treasures of a trip like this is the people you meet. Guests arrived from all over the world, but within days, you feel like you’ve known them forever. Over shared meals, ATV rides, and hikes, we found common ground in our love for travel and nature. My roommate and I bonded instantly, and I left with friendships I know will last.
The staff added to that sense of belonging. They knew our names upon arrival, remembered our favourite drinks, and made every effort to personalize our experience. Their passion for the land and wildlife was infectious, and their knowledge made every hike and evening presentation fascinating.
Capturing the Journey
“One of the unexpected treasures of a trip like this is the people you meet.” ~ Priscilla Downey photo.
As a photographer tasked with capturing the experience, I had the privilege of taking over Churchill Wild’s social media during my stay. I wanted to show not just the polar bears, but the emotions and human connections that make this adventure so special. Guests were excited to see their reactions captured alongside the wildlife, and each evening, sharing my images felt like reliving the magic all over again. To see and capture the pure emotion and utter joy on their faces as they observed these majestic creatures is so fulfilling.
Two moments stand out behind the camera: the tears of joy as we watched a mother and cubs nestled by a stream, and the pure excitement as guests tried to capture their first photos of the northern lights.
Northern lights over Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. Priscilla Downey photo.
Shared Adventures, Lasting Bonds, Reflections on a Polar Bear Safari
On a Churchill Wild safari, it’s not just the polar bears and northern lights that leave a mark, it’s the moments you share together. Whether travelling as a family, a couple, friends, or solo, guests connect over the thrill of spotting wildlife, the joy of shared meals, and quiet moments of wonder on the tundra. These are experiences that bring people closer and create stories you’ll tell for a lifetime.
Guests viewing polar bears at Nanuk. Priscilla Downey photo.
If I had to sum up my time at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge in one word, it would be wonder. Wonder at the bears and their cubs, wonder at the dancing aurora, wonder at the food and hospitality, and wonder at the kindness of strangers who quickly became friends.
Would I go back? Absolutely, in a heartbeat. I am officially addicted to the experience (and food) that Churchill Wild provides. Each of their safaris have been carefully curated offering something unique, and I’m dying to experience them all.
This young cub looked like he was going to miss us. The feeling was mutual. Priscilla Downey photo.
If you’re considering a polar bear tour in Canada, don’t hesitate. It’s a trip of a lifetime that will leave you with memories forever etched in your heart. Just be warned, after a week of mouthwatering food in the wilderness, going home to cereal and grilled cheese may leave you wishing you could hire a personal chef…
Or go back tomorrow.
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge
