Mom and cubs on the beach at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. Cheryl Hnatiuk photo.
This summer has been one for the books at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. Head guide Terry Elliott, now in his 18th season with Churchill Wild, has seen some of the best wildlife activity in years.
The action started five days ago when a whale carcass washed up on the beach. “I had a dozen bears there,” said Elliott. The dead whale brought together an impressive group of polar bears, creating incredible viewing opportunities for guests on Churchill Wild’s Arctic Discovery and Hudson Bay Odyssey trips.
What made the gathering special was the number of bear families. “There were 12 bears around the area and mostly moms and cubs,” said Elliott. “There was a mom and a two-year-old, there were two moms with twins, one mom with a single, and also a couple of single bears.”
Mom and cub at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. Priscilla Downey photo.
For guests, these close encounters have been emotional experiences. “Everyone’s been totally stoked, a few guests have cried,” said Elliott. “When guests are that emotional, you know you’re showing them something good.”
The polar bears haven’t been the only stars this summer. A lone black wolf has made several appearances around the lodge area. Elliott had his own close encounter while washing equipment. “She was in the river, so that was really cool,” said Elliott.
Other wildlife sightings have added to the excitement. “We had a brief look at a wolverine running across the swamp,” said Elliott. “We had three otters, a family group playing down by the river. And black bears have been active too, with a mother and three cubs providing cute photo opportunities.
The black wolf stare. Kristy Hoad photo.
Some of the polar bear encounters have been closer than others. “We had a mom and a cub approach us yesterday,” said Elliott, noting that he had to discourage them from getting too close. His experience shows in how he manages these situations safely.
The weather has been ideal for both animals and guests. “Really smoking hot and sunny the last couple of days,” said Elliott. The dry conditions have made traveling across the tundra much easier than usual, with rivers running low and very little mud.
One of the biggest bonuses has been the lack of bugs. “There are hardly any bugs because it’s super dry up here,” said Elliott. Anyone who has visited the Arctic knows how rare this is, and guests have been able to enjoy their outdoor time without the usual swarms of mosquitoes and blackflies.
“And we had good northern lights the other night,” said Elliott, which gave guests another reason to stay up late and watch the sky from the viewing tower.
What’s interesting about this summer’s bear activity is the mix. “We haven’t seen a single male,” said Elliott. “It’s been all females and moms with cubs.” This pattern is actually what the Hudson Bay Odyssey safari was originally built around. When Churchill Wild first started the trip, it was called “Mothers and Cubs” because that’s what the area was known for. The name was changed when male bears started showing up more regularly, but this summer has returned to the original pattern.
Terry Elliott photographing happy guests at Nanuk. Priscilla Downey photo.
Elliott brings serious experience to his observations. At 64, he has nearly 30 years of guiding under his belt and was made a fellow of the Royal Canadian Geographic Society in 2019. His passion for his work is clear and his expertise comes from what he calls a “self-taught master’s degree in Life in the Arctic.”
As a naturalist, Terry knows the geography, geology, plants, birds, and wildlife of northern Manitoba inside and out. At Seal River Heritage Lodge, he can identify every plant species and has even found two that were previously undocumented for the area.
Elliott’s work schedule during the five-month season is intense. He wakes up early to check for wildlife and helps plan each day’s activities. He leads morning and afternoon trips, gives evening presentations, and periodically wakes up during the night to alert guests if the northern lights appear.
His take on polar bear numbers is positive. “The population seems like it’s stable,” said Elliott, an assessment that carries weight given his years of field observation.
Terry Elliott giving guests the safety talk at Nanuk. Priscilla Downey photo.
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge sits where three different ecosystems meet – boreal forest, tundra, and marine environment – and the combination of great wildlife viewing, perfect weather, and minimal bugs has created ideal conditions for what many guests describe as a life-changing experience. “Everybody’s been very happy,” said Elliott.
Elliott and his team expect Nanuk to deliver more authentic Arctic experiences that create lasting memories. When the season ends, he’ll return to the Vancouver Island home that he built himself, where he recharges with his wife Kirsten and their two dogs, trading polar bears for golf courses and garden work until the Arctic calls him back again. But for now…
“I love wildlife,” said Elliott. “I love being around wildlife. I love showing people wildlife.”
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge
