Photo by Marilyn Scriver – Arctic Safari
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By Maggie Cole
A Favourite of Many
I’ve heard it time and again—every Churchill Wild staff member I asked about their favourite trip said, “Arctic Safari.” Guides, servers, even the owners, Mike and Jeanne, all agree. Naturally, I had to find out what all the excitement was about.
It’s the beginning of September, and the sun is shining. This isn’t the usual time for guests to visit; most prefer the summer, when the fireweed blooms, or October/November, when the polar bears prepare for the freeze. But after experiencing both summer and fall in previous years, I’ve come to love September. Why, you ask? No bugs and no freezing temperatures!
To reach Seal River Heritage Lodge, we take a quick 20-minute flight from Churchill. Along the way, we spot around 10 polar bears along the coastline and beluga whales still lingering in Hudson Bay. Jason, our pilot, has an incredible eye for wildlife after so many flights. “Your eyes just start to drift in the right direction and know where to look,” he explains.
Aerial photo of Seal River Heritage Lodge at low tide.
Upon landing, we’re greeted by our guides for the week—Jess, Terry, and Luke. They load our luggage and begin driving us to the lodge, but our trip is cut short as “Runway Bear” lounges on the driveway (more on Runway Bear later). Within 10 minutes of landing, we’ve already spotted our first polar bear, and by 15 minutes, our second! We quickly drop off our bags and head to the raised viewing platforms in the compound, where we watch another bear stroll by and snap some photos. This delayed lunch, but it was absolutely worth it.
After a delicious meal prepared by on-site chefs using recipes from our famous Blueberries & Polar Bears cookbook, we head back out for safety training.
Walking with Polar Bears: Safety First
Why the training? Because we’re about to walk with polar bears, and safety is our top priority. Once in the fenced compound, we all stand side by side. Jess walks us through the various deterrents the guides carry, and explains when and why they’re used. This helps ensure guests understand exactly what’s happening while we’re out in the field.
Jess then teaches us the maneuvers we’ll need to stay safe in polar bear country. “Shoulder to shoulder, and CLOSE THE GAPS!” she emphasizes. No kneeling for photos unless permitted. It’s crucial to remember that polar bears have an exceptional sense of smell—30 times better than a bloodhound. Yes, a bloodhound. Bears rely on scent to figure out what we are, so we always approach them from downwind, never sneaking up or showing weakness. If a bear gets too curious, we’re trained to take two steps forward and shout “HEY BEAR!” with confidence. This is seen as a threat, and the bears back off.
Guest training before going out in the field
After about 30 minutes of training, we’re ready to head into polar bear country. Fortunately, we don’t have to go far; a bear is right outside the lodge, peacefully napping. We take some photos and move on after about 15 minutes, continuing to Three Bear Point—a marker after One Bear and you guessed it… Two Bear Point. It’s a slow, scenic walk, with frequent stops as our guides teach us about the tundra’s flora and fauna. This walk makes you appreciate how remote and wild this place really is.
Life at Seal River Heritage Lodge
When returning to the lodge, we enjoy hot showers and get ready for appetizers and dinner. The rooms are cozy, each with a private ensuite bathroom. Thoughtful touches, like a basket of snacks and fresh water, make the space feel extra special. And you might just spot a polar bear passing by if you peek out your window!
Appetizers are served at 6 p.m., paired with Canadian wine and beer. Guests gather in the lounge, with big comfy couches and large windows perfect for viewing the approaching bears. Dinner is served at 7 p.m. in the dining room, and we eat family-style, which makes the experience more intimate. We share stories with fellow guests and hear about their past adventures. As mentioned, each meal is prepared from our cookbook series, and the recipe for the night is always on display.
The lodge itself is filled with fascinating décor—photo books of polar bears from previous guests, handcrafted wood carvings, and even a world map where you can pin your hometown.
Unforgettable Polar Bear Encounters
What seemed like a perfect day was topped off when we were woken up by the northern lights that night. They were stunning, bright, and magical under a crystal-clear sky. National Geographic photographer, Jad Davenport, who accompanies our Arctic Safari, helped guests capture the lights, sharing invaluable photography tips—even for iPhone users!
The next morning, coffee is ready at 7 a.m., followed by breakfast at 8. We set out on our first excursion of the day and quickly come across two napping polar bears, one of whom gives us a hilarious show—playing with seaweed and rolling around on its back. The other bear lay sprawled out on the flats on its belly with its legs out behind him.
And remember Runway Bear that greeted us on the first day? She’s back for another close encounter. Runway Bear earned her name from always napping on top of a pile of stones beside the runway, where she’s dug out a little bed for herself. She hangs out there when the guests fly in—never phased by the plane. She’s been hanging around the lodge for about two to three weeks, and always returns to her perch at the end of the day. The guides estimate that she’s about 3-4 years old, and definitely acts like the Queen of the area.
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We approach Runway Bear 100 meters away and walk with her on her journey. After snacking on some berries, she grows curious about our group. Our guide Jess calls out, “Hey Honey! We’re watching you!”, and Runway Bear lays down to rest, chewing and licking her paws; this was the perfect photo opportunity. Up she gets and walks in a little closer. When it’s time to push her off, our training was put to the test as Jess instructs us to take two steps forward and shout, “Hey Bear!”. She quickly backs off, respecting our space.
With 16 guests standing firm, our unified presence was enough to make the polar bear reconsider and turn the other way. It’s important to remember that while polar bears are naturally curious, they will never put themselves in a situation where they don’t have an advantage.
Runway Bear taking a nap at Seal River Heritage Lodge.
After our thrilling morning hike, we returned to the lodge for a well-deserved lunch. Later that afternoon, we set out for another hike to explore the vast tundra. Our guides shared fascinating insights about the landscape, indigenous history, and even gave us the chance to touch permafrost.
The next morning, the guests geared up for a full-day excursion to the mouth of the Seal River. Meanwhile, I decided to stay back at the lodge to catch up on some work. With my laptop open, coffee in hand, and polar bears casually wandering by outside, my office views were anything but ordinary. I might need to have a word with my boss about relocating my office permanently!
Later that evening at Seal River Heritage Lodge, brought yet another incredible polar bear encounter. A bear sat right at the fence as we stood on the raised platform, watching as the sunset painted the sky in shades of pink and orange. There’s nothing quite like making eye contact with a polar bear—curious, not threatening—while you stand safely behind the fence in what we call the “human zoo.”
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Boats, Belugas, and Christmas Carols
Between countless polar bear sightings, beautiful displays of the northern lights, and an unforgettable close encounter at the fence, I thought the trip had already reached its peak. But then we set out on the boats…
On the next day excursion, we take to the water, not expecting to see many belugas as they typically leave in September. But to our surprise, hundreds of belugas surround our boat, curious and playful. We even sang to them as they swam closer—though Terry, our guide, is not a fan of Christmas carols, as they get stuck in his head for days. So, of course, I made sure to sing Jingle Bells over the radio to his boat.
One Last Encounter
After getting back to the lodge from our boating excursion, we set out for one last walk. With four polar bears in the area, we had to stay alert. A male bear approached us, slowly positioning himself to catch our scent before settling down.
A few minutes had passed, and he got up and wandered closer, but the guides quickly stepped forward, and the bear backed off without hesitation. As we moved on, we came across two sleepy bears resting in the willows, lazily lifting their heads before nodding off again. We ended the day with one final visit from Runway Bear, a perfect way to close out the adventure.
We enjoyed four nights at Seal River Heritage Lodge, but it was time to transfer to our Caribou Tundra Camp at Schmok Lake. Guests enjoyed their morning coffee, sharing how incredible the trip had been, but some mentioned they hadn’t seen a mom and cub yet. Like magic, a mother bear and her cub appeared, lounging right in front of the lodge. We watched them snuggle, swim, and even chase off another bear that got too close. She stood up blocking the cub, with her head down and ears back; that’s when you know they mean business.
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Schmok Lake and Caribou
Our journey to Schmok Lake began with two plane rides. The first took us to Duck Lake, where we transferred to a float plane that landed smoothly on the water, right in front of our camp. I have seen countless photos of Schmok Lake, with the Arctic tents nestled in a stunning fall landscape, but seeing it in person was so much better. As soon as we landed, we were greeted by a vibrant carpet of reds and oranges on the path to our tents. It was breathtaking.
Each tent had a personalized wooden sign, so we knew exactly where we’d be staying. Inside, there were heaters for the chilly nights, though I didn’t even need mine thanks to the polar bear-shaped hot water bottles the staff slipped into our sleeping bags each evening.
The camp had all the comforts of home—three washrooms with hot showers, toilets, sinks, and electricity. Though the electric fence was there to deter black bears, not polar bears, it added a layer of security. We also had two large tents for dining, making this the most comfortable camping experience I’ve ever had! Every morning, the staff even delivered coffee right to our tents.
I can’t put into words how beautiful the surroundings were—lakes, small forests, and rock formations made for endless exploration. We hiked 10 kilometers one day, the farthest any group had gone, according to our impressed guides. Along the way, we encountered several groups of caribou and even practised our caribou dance when one curious female wandered by!
After our long hike, half the group braved the lake for a polar plunge! Each evening, we gathered around a warm bonfire, sipping wine and sharing ghost stories. On the last night, the northern lights danced above our tents, and we captured stunning photos with the tents glowing beneath the auroras.
Meeting such a wonderful group of people made the trip even more special. We bonded over our shared adventure and truly became friends. I’m grateful for the memories and hope to see them again.
So, what’s my favourite Churchill Wild adventure?
The Arctic Safari. Hands down.
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