Muddy paws at Seal River. David McEldowney photo.
David McEldowney has photographed wildlife on every continent. He’s tracked tigers in Asia, captured cheetahs in Africa, and hiked at 17,000 feet in the Andes for the perfect shot. But last summer, standing on the rocky tidal flats of Hudson Bay during Churchill Wild’s Summer Dual Lodge Safari, he experienced something that set this trip apart from all the others.
Two lodges. Two ecosystems. One unforgettable story.
“I had been to the Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge before, but I had never been to Seal River Heritage Lodge,” said David. “So I got to experience the polar bears in two very, very different environments. At Nanuk, we were on the shoreline with the forest in the background. At Seal River we were directly on the ocean.”
The difference between the landscapes and wildlife at the two lodges made the Summer Dual Lodge Safari stand out. Not just one perspective on polar bear behavior, but two different worlds.
Two Worlds, Two Stories
David’s eleven-day trip began at Seal River Heritage Lodge, 60 kilometres north of Churchill on Hudson Bay’s coastline. The contrast couldn’t have been more striking when compared to his later destination at Nanuk.
“Even though we were technically on the ocean at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, it’s a pretty good trek to get to go across the long beach to get to the ocean,” said David. “It’s more of a forest and river tour. Two very different experiences.”
At Seal River, the drama unfolds directly on the shoreline. “One is smackdown on the shore of the ocean,” said David. “The other one’s on the ocean, technically, but it’s a ways away. So I would say that the key difference is that you’re going to have waves washing up against the lodge at Seal River and the polar bears are going to be right there on the ocean, whereas at Nanuk the polar bears are also there, and they’re curious, but you’re not going to be seaside.”
Beyond the polar bears, Seal River offered David something different: thousands of beluga whales in the estuary waters. The Zodiac excursions among the belugas meant gliding through waters while these creatures surfaced nearby.
Grizzled veteran on the green. David McEldowney photo.
The Forest Lodge
After four days at Seal River, David took a 90-minute charter flight southeast to Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. The flight provided a view of York Factory, where centuries of northern history lie in the landscape below.
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge presented a different chapter in David’s polar bear story. Here, where Canada’s boreal forest meets the Hudson Bay coast, polar bears share their realm with black bears, wolves, and moose.
“I saw wolves at both of my tours at Nanuk,” said David. “When I did my first tour on the Nanuk Emergence Quest, we had a pack of 13 wolves. The wildlife at Nanuk is incredibly diverse. And the polar bears behave differently. Their interactions with the forest environment offer opportunities for images and observations that are different than those at Seal River.”
Canada geese over Nanuk. David McEldowney photo.
Watching the Guides Work
“The polar bears and the black bears sometimes get curious,” said David. “And watching your guides, how they can push back these big, beastly animals, that stood out for me. It was definitely interesting, the way they never really had to escalate very far. Observing the way they handled themselves and the animals was fascinating.”
The guides’ expertise extends beyond wildlife management. “The Churchill Wild guides have always been exemplary,” said David. “And on more than one occasion they’ve helped me resolve photography challenges, issues that are due to my lack of experience with either wildlife photography or my photography equipment.”
The Right Approach
David has travelled extensively for wildlife photography. By the end of this year, he’ll have been to every continent in the world. His equipment setup includes two Sony A1 bodies and lenses from wide-angle to his primary 600mm F4 prime.
“I don’t skimp on tours,” said David. “I look for companies that have experienced guides and trackers, and also companies that respect the wildlife. They don’t do things that are going to stress the animals. So we’re basically visitors and observers, and you guys are extremely good at that. The guides you have are very, very talented. It’s a quality operation.”
David’s approach to wildlife photography aligns with Churchill Wild’s conservation-focused mission. Churchill Wild’s guides create encounters while maintaining a distance that keeps both the wildlife and guests safe.
Northern lights can often be seen at the Churchill Wild’s ecolodges during the summer. David McEldowney photo
The Complete Experience
Beyond the photography opportunities, David found himself immersed in two distinct Arctic ecosystems. At Seal River, the horizon and direct ocean access created a sense of being at the edge of the world. At Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, the interplay between forest and coast showed how different species adapt to and share the same landscape.
“A bad day out doing photography where you don’t see any animals still beats the heck out of an excellent day in the office,” said David. “And the groups are great. One of the reasons why I do the level of trips like the ones Churchill Wild offers is because people that are paying serious money for those types of trips are generally going to be of a similar mindset, with respect for the wildlife and ethical viewing practices. They play well with others in the sandbox. And they understand that the wildlife can be unpredictable.”
Wolf at sunset. Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. David McEldowney photo.
Coming Back for More
David’s commitment to Churchill Wild extends beyond his Summer Dual Lodge experience. Having completed the Nanuk Emergence Quest in 2023, he’s booked for another emergence trip in 2026.
“Absolutely,” said David when asked if he’d recommend Churchill Wild for someone wanting to see polar bears. “Nobody I’ve been with touches Churchill Wild for polar bears.”
David has considered additional polar bear trips elsewhere but remains loyal to Churchill Wild. “I like the fact that the Churchill Wild lodges are out in the middle of nowhere, and the polar bears that you encounter are deep in the wilderness. They’re not habituated to people. We’re just kind of a small temporary distraction for them. And I get to spend time pursuing a passion and learn more about our wonderful world.”
Young black bear at Nanuk. David McEldowney photo.
As he prepares for his return to Churchill Wild in 2026, David carries with him thousands of photographs and memories of two lodges that offered twice the wonder. The Summer Dual Lodge Safari doesn’t just show you polar bears, it paints their complete story, told across two uniquely different realms in the Canadian Arctic.
“I am so thankful for the professionalism and thoughtfulness of the entire Churchill Wild team,” said David. “The images I’ve captured on my adventures with you are incredible, but the journeys and the new friendships are priceless.”
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge
